Checklists
In order to get ready for racing i have made a few checklists, As i have said to a few of you that spotted the laminted version of my cockpit checklist I will post the complete list, so here it is. The Excel spreadsheet contains the following
- Track prep checklist – making sure I have everything done for track days…. Like insurance, car prep etc
- Paddock checklist – what do I need to do whilst I am in the paddock on a race day
- Cockpit checklist (this is the laminated one I have in my car) –so what do I need to make sure I have done when in the cockpit
- Post race checklist – what do I need to do before I go home
- Post track / Race day checklist – what do I need to do when I am home
- Spanner check list – list of what I have got to check, their torque settings from the manual, and a record of any action I had to do (in case I spot a trend)
I hope you find it of use, and if you see things you think i have missed let me know and i will add it and re-share it
- Track prep checklist – making sure I have everything done for track days…. Like insurance, car prep etc
- Paddock checklist – what do I need to do whilst I am in the paddock on a race day
- Cockpit checklist (this is the laminated one I have in my car) –so what do I need to make sure I have done when in the cockpit
- Post race checklist – what do I need to do before I go home
- Post track / Race day checklist – what do I need to do when I am home
- Spanner check list – list of what I have got to check, their torque settings from the manual, and a record of any action I had to do (in case I spot a trend)
I hope you find it of use, and if you see things you think i have missed let me know and i will add it and re-share it
check_lists.xlsx | |
File Size: | 32 kb |
File Type: | xlsx |
February - More preperation to do
Whilst I have not had a car I have had a look at the 2012 regulations and made some notes on what I need to do in order to get compliant and ready to race.... and let’s just say there is a fair bit of work to do.
Add more things
- I need to add the Vinyl protection to the sides of the newly painted car
- I will need to add the Fuel Tap to the fuel line
- I need to fit the Oil breather kit
- Fit the wrist restraints to the car (and add tape to identify one arm from the other)
- Fit the roll cage padding and tape with insulation tape
- Add yellow tape to the black battery leads
- get the HANS device fitted
- Fill the void behind the Tillet seat with expandable foam
- Put tape between windscreen and Roll cage to stop rain
- Tape up doors
- Fit the second Mirror
- Checklists
* Create a checklist for pre-race preparation
* create a list for track day
* create a list for cockpit
* create a post-race day check list
- Fit T200 Lap timer to the car
- Fit competition numbers and decals when received
- Fit Timing strut for first sprint race
- Tape up the front Lights (race meeting)
- Tape up the handbrake for use with arm restraints
Change some things
- Fit the upgraded front brake Pads
- Fit the racing brake fluid cap
- Check the fittings of the harnesses
- Adjust the drivers seat
- Put the seven in front of the grille in the nose cone
- Seal the boot floor
Remove some things
- I need to remove the extra rubber from the car (all the SVA stuff) so that it cannot come off the car
- Remove the excess bolts from under the car (in case they scrape on a kerb)
- Remove the passenger seat
Buy some things
- Car setup needs to be done, balance all needs to be completed
* Ride height to 145mm
* Camber
* Weight of car and driver to be checked
* Pedal set up
* etc
- HANS device and setup
- I am looking at a second mirror to fit to the driver’s side (convex) to allow racing without doors if i want to)
- buy the silicone and aluminium tape required to seal the boot from fire
- I am thinking of buying a cigarettes lighter socket to fit in to the boot for the tyre air compressor I have purchased.
- I need to get another Jerry Can for the track meets
- There is the dilemma about new tyres and wheels... do I or don’t I (and do I go for some old ones that can't be raced with)?
- Buy some electrical tape for the fitting of the roll cage padding
- Duct tape for general use (but specifically for use between roll cage and windscreen)
- Buy T200 track timer
Some things to Learn
- The rules
- The light sequences
- Heel and toe
- Smooth driving
Considerations
- Consider if going to use half doors - probably not
- Consider under tray for protection of car - probably not
- Consider usage of heat diffusing kit (30P242A) - probably not
- Movement of the inertia cut out switch into the cockpit ---- possibly, but not sure where it is
- Think about marshalling and how that is arranged
Things all ready completed after the IVA in readiness for racing
- Rain Light fitted
- Side impact bar fitted
- large 17" rear view mirror fitted
- ARDS test past
- 1 Service completed (880 miles)
- protective vinyl added to the rear wheel arches
- heated windscreen replaced with non heated one
- Race suit, Boots, Gloves, and underwear purchased
- Helmet purchased
Add more things
- I need to add the Vinyl protection to the sides of the newly painted car
- I will need to add the Fuel Tap to the fuel line
- I need to fit the Oil breather kit
- Fit the wrist restraints to the car (and add tape to identify one arm from the other)
- Fit the roll cage padding and tape with insulation tape
- Add yellow tape to the black battery leads
- get the HANS device fitted
- Fill the void behind the Tillet seat with expandable foam
- Put tape between windscreen and Roll cage to stop rain
- Tape up doors
- Fit the second Mirror
- Checklists
* Create a checklist for pre-race preparation
* create a list for track day
* create a list for cockpit
* create a post-race day check list
- Fit T200 Lap timer to the car
- Fit competition numbers and decals when received
- Fit Timing strut for first sprint race
- Tape up the front Lights (race meeting)
- Tape up the handbrake for use with arm restraints
Change some things
- Fit the upgraded front brake Pads
- Fit the racing brake fluid cap
- Check the fittings of the harnesses
- Adjust the drivers seat
- Put the seven in front of the grille in the nose cone
- Seal the boot floor
Remove some things
- I need to remove the extra rubber from the car (all the SVA stuff) so that it cannot come off the car
- Remove the excess bolts from under the car (in case they scrape on a kerb)
- Remove the passenger seat
Buy some things
- Car setup needs to be done, balance all needs to be completed
* Ride height to 145mm
* Camber
* Weight of car and driver to be checked
* Pedal set up
* etc
- HANS device and setup
- I am looking at a second mirror to fit to the driver’s side (convex) to allow racing without doors if i want to)
- buy the silicone and aluminium tape required to seal the boot from fire
- I am thinking of buying a cigarettes lighter socket to fit in to the boot for the tyre air compressor I have purchased.
- I need to get another Jerry Can for the track meets
- There is the dilemma about new tyres and wheels... do I or don’t I (and do I go for some old ones that can't be raced with)?
- Buy some electrical tape for the fitting of the roll cage padding
- Duct tape for general use (but specifically for use between roll cage and windscreen)
- Buy T200 track timer
Some things to Learn
- The rules
- The light sequences
- Heel and toe
- Smooth driving
Considerations
- Consider if going to use half doors - probably not
- Consider under tray for protection of car - probably not
- Consider usage of heat diffusing kit (30P242A) - probably not
- Movement of the inertia cut out switch into the cockpit ---- possibly, but not sure where it is
- Think about marshalling and how that is arranged
Things all ready completed after the IVA in readiness for racing
- Rain Light fitted
- Side impact bar fitted
- large 17" rear view mirror fitted
- ARDS test past
- 1 Service completed (880 miles)
- protective vinyl added to the rear wheel arches
- heated windscreen replaced with non heated one
- Race suit, Boots, Gloves, and underwear purchased
- Helmet purchased
January - New windscreen (hint)
Recomendations have been flooding in,
- cut the bottom of the seat bolts off so they dont get bent on track curves
- Tyre pressure should be xx psi vs xx psi (mine are 23 and 25 front to rear based on a dry and damp track run in Janurary)
- by the uprated front pads (well in fairness this i have done)
- half doors or full doors or no doors.... seems to be down to your preference
then there is the windscreen, not something that i had thought about, but i was advised to replace my heated windscreen with the basic windscreen you can get from Caterham.... why you might ask?
well advice has it that when on a track you will get stones and possibly debris thrown up (possibly parts of other cars) and in three years time you need your heated windscreen to pass the MOT.
Well why not just buy one you may ask, well the cost of a heated screen is over £400, however caterham do a £90 plain screen which is perfectly ok for racing and normal driving a like. and if you go through a few screens in a season then it is only gonna be £90 not £400+. and at the end of the racing when you want the car back on the road, you still have the original screen, no problems.
Well surely you say you should get too much damage from the track..... well let me put that thought in perspective, i did replace my screen before I did my first track day, and i have to say even though it was a fairly wide, clean track i still ended up with three little chips out of the screen. So when you put 25 cars in close proximity all battling for position, i can see that that is going to be throwing a few little things at you, and maybe the odd bigger thing.
It is always a choice but realistically it makes sence to save money ehere you can, and this is a simple way to pre-empt the damage for a small cost.
- cut the bottom of the seat bolts off so they dont get bent on track curves
- Tyre pressure should be xx psi vs xx psi (mine are 23 and 25 front to rear based on a dry and damp track run in Janurary)
- by the uprated front pads (well in fairness this i have done)
- half doors or full doors or no doors.... seems to be down to your preference
then there is the windscreen, not something that i had thought about, but i was advised to replace my heated windscreen with the basic windscreen you can get from Caterham.... why you might ask?
well advice has it that when on a track you will get stones and possibly debris thrown up (possibly parts of other cars) and in three years time you need your heated windscreen to pass the MOT.
Well why not just buy one you may ask, well the cost of a heated screen is over £400, however caterham do a £90 plain screen which is perfectly ok for racing and normal driving a like. and if you go through a few screens in a season then it is only gonna be £90 not £400+. and at the end of the racing when you want the car back on the road, you still have the original screen, no problems.
Well surely you say you should get too much damage from the track..... well let me put that thought in perspective, i did replace my screen before I did my first track day, and i have to say even though it was a fairly wide, clean track i still ended up with three little chips out of the screen. So when you put 25 cars in close proximity all battling for position, i can see that that is going to be throwing a few little things at you, and maybe the odd bigger thing.
It is always a choice but realistically it makes sence to save money ehere you can, and this is a simple way to pre-empt the damage for a small cost.
December - Reviewing the cost of Personal Kit ... Race suit etc
Following the presentation at Caterham I decided that a trip to Demon Tweaks might be the order of the day, but since it was such a large distance to travel and budget is limited I decided to do a little consumer comparison. To do this I travelled to Silverstone where GPR-Direct are based so that i could look at the kit try it on and have a basis for comparison of the items I would buy. I would have loved to have done the same for Demon Tweaks, but since it is a 3 hour drive for me, the Demon Tweaks half of the comparison would be done online and from the catalogue they handed out on the day.
Both of these suppliers will supply a 10% discount for the Academy drivers... Demon Tweaks (located in Wrexham) and GPR Direct (located in Silverstone) means that the north south is covered fairly well.
As far as the stores go, Demon Tweaks store looks much larger and has a larger range of items (it is not only race wear), but for the comparison I looked at the items that they both sell, and restricted the comparison to items that I may look to buy on a limited budget (as mine is).
Below is a comparison table that shows the items that were chosen, and that were compared, I included a couple of options for the Hans devices and for the helmets as those were the ones I really did not have a immediate preference on, so it would come down to cost. On the right is a couple of smaller grids which show what the cost is from each store, based on the more expensive and the cheaper of the options that were priced (Note prices do not include VAT or the 10% discount)
In both cases GPR Direct came out cheaper by a over £50 and although I understand that Demon Tweaks will include a kit bag and helmet bag for you at no extra cost, if GPR Direct do the same then it is a no brainer for those of us in the south of the country.
I would strongly suggest that you do a similar comparison before you buy, and make sure you go and try the items on, there is no substitute for touching and trying the things that may just save your life! ! !
Both of these suppliers will supply a 10% discount for the Academy drivers... Demon Tweaks (located in Wrexham) and GPR Direct (located in Silverstone) means that the north south is covered fairly well.
As far as the stores go, Demon Tweaks store looks much larger and has a larger range of items (it is not only race wear), but for the comparison I looked at the items that they both sell, and restricted the comparison to items that I may look to buy on a limited budget (as mine is).
Below is a comparison table that shows the items that were chosen, and that were compared, I included a couple of options for the Hans devices and for the helmets as those were the ones I really did not have a immediate preference on, so it would come down to cost. On the right is a couple of smaller grids which show what the cost is from each store, based on the more expensive and the cheaper of the options that were priced (Note prices do not include VAT or the 10% discount)
In both cases GPR Direct came out cheaper by a over £50 and although I understand that Demon Tweaks will include a kit bag and helmet bag for you at no extra cost, if GPR Direct do the same then it is a no brainer for those of us in the south of the country.
I would strongly suggest that you do a similar comparison before you buy, and make sure you go and try the items on, there is no substitute for touching and trying the things that may just save your life! ! !