Well I have invited a friend over (pictured ... thanks Del) and we are gonna get the engine out, but without the gearbox. The plan is to remove the engine without the gearbox and fix the gearbox leak in situe....
I spent most of Friday getting the nightmare bolt out and finally succeeded to remove the "starter motor" bolt that is closest to the engine... to do it i had to get a half inch flexible extension (looks a bit like a snake) and a ball jointed 17mm socket... then by feeding the socket and extension over the top of the oil filter (from underneath the car), and accross the top of the starter motor i managed to finally get enough torque onto the bolt to get it removed....
Now the rest is simple (ish)
1) undo all the bell housing bolts
2) Remove the exhaust
3) remove all the wiring connections (and the 100's of cable ties)
4) get the engine hoist back into position
5) Drain the water and remove the hoses
6) undo the gearbox mounting bolts (but not remove them)
7) remove the engine mounting bolts (and engine mountings)
8) lift the engine out...
"Simples ! ! " ...... Actually it was fairly easy.
Now for the Gear box....
1) remove the bell housing from the gear box (four bolts and a couple of taps with a rubber hammer)
- note there is no need to remove the clutch as the bell housing can simply be placed on the scuttle at the back of the bay.
2) we ended up removing the "nose" of the gearbox and the metal plate too.. and using the gaskets (and sealant) to replace them as my gearbox was leaking from the bottom of the nose.
3) before replacing any of the gaskets we had to make sure that there was no gasket left in place, so a long cleaning process was used to scrap off the sealant from all serfaces (making sure not to scratch the metal face).
3) we put a bead of silicone sealant around the "selector rail" at the top of the gearbox, and then a bead all the way around where the paper gasket will sit
We put on the paper gasket onto the front of the gearbox, squashed it onto the sealant and place another bead of sealant onto the paper gasket... now the messy bit..
4) put the bell housing back and tightend the bolts to torque
Engine went back ok, only trick was to put the gearbox on the jack and lift the bearbox up as high as it could go, so that the engine could be lined up early in the lowering process (more room so the engine can be pushed back to allow the pulleys at the front of the engine to clear the top chassis rails).
Below are a few picks of the gearbox.....
I spent most of Friday getting the nightmare bolt out and finally succeeded to remove the "starter motor" bolt that is closest to the engine... to do it i had to get a half inch flexible extension (looks a bit like a snake) and a ball jointed 17mm socket... then by feeding the socket and extension over the top of the oil filter (from underneath the car), and accross the top of the starter motor i managed to finally get enough torque onto the bolt to get it removed....
Now the rest is simple (ish)
1) undo all the bell housing bolts
2) Remove the exhaust
3) remove all the wiring connections (and the 100's of cable ties)
4) get the engine hoist back into position
5) Drain the water and remove the hoses
6) undo the gearbox mounting bolts (but not remove them)
7) remove the engine mounting bolts (and engine mountings)
8) lift the engine out...
"Simples ! ! " ...... Actually it was fairly easy.
Now for the Gear box....
1) remove the bell housing from the gear box (four bolts and a couple of taps with a rubber hammer)
- note there is no need to remove the clutch as the bell housing can simply be placed on the scuttle at the back of the bay.
2) we ended up removing the "nose" of the gearbox and the metal plate too.. and using the gaskets (and sealant) to replace them as my gearbox was leaking from the bottom of the nose.
3) before replacing any of the gaskets we had to make sure that there was no gasket left in place, so a long cleaning process was used to scrap off the sealant from all serfaces (making sure not to scratch the metal face).
3) we put a bead of silicone sealant around the "selector rail" at the top of the gearbox, and then a bead all the way around where the paper gasket will sit
We put on the paper gasket onto the front of the gearbox, squashed it onto the sealant and place another bead of sealant onto the paper gasket... now the messy bit..
4) put the bell housing back and tightend the bolts to torque
Engine went back ok, only trick was to put the gearbox on the jack and lift the bearbox up as high as it could go, so that the engine could be lined up early in the lowering process (more room so the engine can be pushed back to allow the pulleys at the front of the engine to clear the top chassis rails).
Below are a few picks of the gearbox.....
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